I planted my Bulb Lasagna!

I may have gotten a little carried away with my ‘Lasagna’!  I planned on each bulb to bloom at Mid Spring, but added more bulbs that would bloom earlier and later.  🙂

Dug rectangle space down 8"

 

I have included my pictures for you to see each step of layering flower bulbs.

 

 

 

 

Add some compost to bottom of hole and inserted daffodils

 

About 2″ of leaves, mulch, sand put in  bottom of hole.  Set my Thalia Daffodils into compost.  (Daffodils are to be planted 6-8″ deep)

 Blooms Mid spring.

 

 

Layer 2

 

Added 1″ of topsoil on top of daffodils, then placed my Persica Fritilaria, Van Eijk Tulips, Daydream Tulips, and Ollioules Tulips on top.  (to be planted 6-8″ deep)  Blooms Mid Spring.

Layer 3

Layer 3

Now for the third layer of my Flower lasagna!  About 1″ of soil and then Allium Schubertii, Plumosum Muscari.  (to be planted 3-4″ deep)  Blooms Late Spring.

Layer 4: I added 2″ more soil on top and then placed the Blue Allium in the back and the Fantasy Creation Muscari in the front.  (to be planted about 3″ deep)  Blooms Late Spring

Layer 5

 

For the last layer I have added about 1″ of dirt and Mixed Dutch Iris and Galanthus (so I can see something right after the snow melts!).  (These are to be planted 1-2″ deep)   Blooms early spring.

 

All mulched... now to wait

 

 

Now I have to wait.

 

I can’t wait to see this Beautiful Lasagna spring up!

 

 

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Stinky but Pretty ‘Lilies’ – Fritillaria

I really like Fritillaria flowers – I consider them unique, but still pretty.  Some flowers are unique and strange looking, not necessarily pretty.  These, however, are a great addition to most flower beds.

I always recommend that you DO NOT plant Fritillaria near your front entrance or walkway.  Fritillaria bulbs and their flower emit a musky smell. This also makes them excellent for planting around other flowers that deer and rodents tend to like, because they do not care for their smell either! The good thing is that you really have to be close in order to smell them.

I had an interesting and funny conversation with a woman whose rats were destroying her vegetable garden.  She was looking for Fritillaria because her neighbors told her that is what they had planted to help keep the rats away.  (People I have dealt with usually struggled with deer, moles, rabbits or squirrels.)  I remember us chuckling that these are rodent deterrent bulbs and that rats are definitely rodents- just large ones! I just know if rats were ever to become an issue in my area, I would be planting hundreds of Fritillaria!

Fritillaria flowers come in a variety of heights and colors. Their height can range from 8″ to 39″ and blooms are found in red, orange, yellow, ivory, and purple.  They all somewhat resemble upside down bells, some which have many small bells per stem, a few large bells per stem or even one bell per stem.  They all grow wild and originally come from areas in the Mediterranean, Turkey, and Afghanistan.  Now they are cultivated mostly in Holland.  They thrive in areas with cold winters and sunny summers.  Most are hardy from zones 4-9.  They may require a tad more shade in warmer, more southern areas.

Generally all bulbs are sensitive to rot if they do not have good drainage.  Fritillaria are especially sensitive to rot.  Never plant in clay.  They also do not like you to move them.  I moved my Fritillaria Persica, never to be seen again.  🙁   So,  if you want them to naturalize and perennialize: plant them at proper depths, in good drainage soil, with lots of sun, and don’t move them.

I consider them a must have for any serious flower gardener- whether you have rodents or not!

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Creative Ways to Plant your Flower Bulbs

I have planted thousands of flower bulbs over the last 15 years – I have read about some unique ways to plant them a little differently for a few years now, but there are two techniques that I haven’t ever tried.  This year I have made the decision to put them to the test!

I have blogged about basic bulb planting in Its Easy to be a Flower Bulb Expert.  This is just a bit more specific and I’ve included two more creative ideas!  While flower bulbs are still the easiest flowers to grow and take care of, these techniques require a little more “know-how” and some patience.

Planting Techniques

Rows/Formal:
A traditional way is planting in wide swaths or rows especially in large sections of the same color.  One bulb per hole at proper spacing.  This really makes a great statement and really pops!

Grouping/Filling in Gaps:
Fill in areas between perennials and shrubs with bulbs to provide color and interest before the perennials and shrubs begin to grow.  One bulb per hole in a group, 5-10 bulbs in a group.  (It is too long to wait for color from perennials – especially in WI and other state with long winters!)

Naturalizing:
This is often done with Crocus and Scilla but can also be done with Daffodils, Galanthus, Squill or Chionodoxa.  Plant at the base of deciduous trees  or within lawn areas.  (I typically do this right after we aerate our lawn as their aeration process makes the perfect-sized holes for planting crocus!)  If you want the bulbs to continue to reappear each year, you will need to wait to cut the lawn until after the foliage has yellowed.

Bouquet:  This technique grows bulbs in groups like a bouquet!
Option #1  Dig a hole to the appropriate depth for the bulb you are planting.  Dig at a width proportionate to the size package of bulbs you are planting.  Dump the package of 5, 10, 15, or 25 bulbs into the hole and cover. (Bulbs can be touching & do not space them)

Option #2  Take option one but pick 3-4 different colored bulbs that bloom at same time.

Layers/Lasagna:   This technique provides a combination of heights, color, and bloom times throughout the planting area or container…. a flower bulb lasagna!
Option #1   Choose a mix of 3-4 types of bulbs such as: Daffodils, Tulips, Muscari, Hyacinths, Anemones, Ranunculus Scilla, or Dutch Iris.  Order your choices by depth requirement and dig your hole to the deepest depth needed.  Place your first type of bulb across the bottom and at proper spacing, cover with a layer of dirt, place your next bulb layer at its proper spacing on top and cover with a layer of dirt, and so on.

Option #2  Take option one but find a container to use instead of planting directly into the ground.  Now if you are in zone 6 or colder, this can be a bit trickier.  When planting perennials in containers, they must be hardy into 1-2 zones colder than what your zone actually is. (For example: I am in zone 5, if I plant a perennial in a pot it must be hardy into zone 4.)  Flower bulbs tend to freeze easier and turn to mush when not in the ground, so this rule does not work with bulbs.  You will need to insulate the pot to protect it from the harsh winter, keeping in mind that it still needs drainage and water, as if in the ground).  You will also need to bring the container into a garage/shed or another somewhat insulated area when temps drop below 20°.   Since you will be moving these containers, it is important to make sure you choose smaller containers which are able to be moved as necessary!

These last two techniques are the ones I have not tried before.  I am especially looking forward to the lasagna planting.  I am going to use one of the collections called Full of Excitement Collection from Tulip World and create another planting with some of my favorites I have selected this year: Allium SchubertiiPersica Fritillaria, Daydream Darwin Hybrid TulipMixed Dutch Iris, SnowdropsFantasy Creation Muscari, Van Eijk Darwin Tulip and Sir Winston Churchill Fragrant Daffodils.  You can use a “pre-made” collection which the folks at Tulip World have put together or create your own for the Lasagna technique!  Have fun planting -and look forward to how beautiful it will look in spring all winter long!

Posted in Container Gardening, Fall, Flower Bulbs, Flowers, Gardening 101 | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Preparing your Garden for Winter

frost 085
Fall has really just arrived.  It is my second favorite season, which comes just before the worst – Winter.  I do not really want to think about winter quite yet, but it will arrive soon for those in Northern areas.  I did speak with a gardener in Colorado today who just received a forecast of snow within the week!  So, it seems I am not too early to talk about this for some.

So when do you prepare for winter’s return? I always recommend waiting for the first light frost that makes your tender flowers wilt or flop before beginning cleaning up your beds and store any tender bulbs (bulbs which are not hardy in your zone).  If it will better fit in to your schedule, feel free to perform these tasks earlier.  I personally just prefer to enjoy my plants as long as possible before I make my beds look bare.

When light frost begins appearing, it is time to pull up your annuals, cut back all perennials to 3-4″ above the ground, and lift your tender bulbs for storing.  This is especially important for those in US Hardiness Zones 2-7.  If you are in one of these colder zones, you may also want to cover perennials with some mulch.  Snow works as an insulator, but with freezing and thawing and little or no snow cover, your perennial roots can be destroyed.  Bulbs that are hardy in your zone are deeper in the ground and do not need mulching.

Caladium Bulb

For your quick reference, the most common tender rhizomes, tubers, corms and bulbs are: Dahlias, Cannas, Calla Lilies, Elephant ears, Begonias, Gladiolus, and Caladiums.  These bulbs are only hardy in zones 8-10 or 9-10.

You could simply purchase new bulbs next year and allow the tender ones to die, but I like to be as frugal as possible.  Storing tender bulbs is very simple and takes just a little effort.

  • Start by trimming foliage to ground level
  • Carefully dig around bulb and lift
  • Shake and gently wipe off as much dirt as possible (do not rinse)
  • Let dry for 1-2 weeks in a cool, dry area that will not freeze
  • If storing more than one type of bulb, don’t forget to sort and label
  • Once dried, shake off and remove remaining dirt
  • Find a container to store them in such as a cardboard box, paper bag, basket, etc
  • Use peat moss, wood shavings or vermiculite to keep bulbs separated and well hydrated
  • Keep your stored bulbs in a dry, cool (45° to 55°), dark and ventilated area until spring

Now that you have taken care of your garden – go relax.  Maybe you can enjoy an autumn bonfire like me!

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Flower Power for Parkinson’s

Have you ever asked yourself how can I help, or how I can do my part to make a difference in the world? To do there part and contribute to the causes most important to them people participate and help raise funds and awareness for what matters most to them. Often a way to do this is participating in run/walks for their cause, and fundraising  benefits for cancer/disease research. By participating this is a great way to do your part and help others! If you don’t have the time to participate in a fundraiser benefit but would like to do your part to help, read further…

I have one of those great offers for you to participate in! Parkinson’s Disease has no cure,  a lot of research has been done, but still no cure.  Research must continue to help those suffering with this debilitating disease.  The American Parkinson Disease Association’s Garden of Hope Project offers everyone the opportunity to participate in its effort to find the cure.   You can buy and plant them for yourself, give them as a gift, or maybe even plant them for someone who is affected by Parkinson’s Disease. Tulip World has been partnering with the APDA for the past 5 years and donates 40% of every bag purchased!

 

 

 

I just wanted to let you know this was available!  Check it out:  APDA Tulips

 

 

 

 

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My Summer Garden Highlights

Wow! Where has summer gone?  It wasn’t too long ago that I was longing for cooler days during the many excessive humid days we had this summer.  This summer was a HOT (for Wisconsin) and dry (which I really like) one.  I will definitely have to reminisce over my photos once winter has returned…

As I organize my photos to share with you, I realize that I should have saved my photos from the post Summer Blooms Beginning to Appear to be in this post. (I think its fun to see them side by side.)  Oh well…I’ll have to remember that for next time!

Peruvian Daffodil/ Festalis Ismene

The award for my favorite flower potted on my deck goes to: the Peruvian Daffodils– so cool and smelled so sweet.  I wish I would have planted more and spaced them 3 weeks apart, which would have allowed me to enjoy them all summer.  I still loved my Purple Gem Dahlia in my other pots that continue to bloom even now in September!

My Purple Coneflowers,  Gaillardia (blanket flower), and Monarda (Bee Balm) filled in so nicely  where my tulips had flourished in the spring.   At one edge of my pond garden the Castor Bean plant and Elephant Ears gave such a tropical feel, along with my hardy in zone 5 – Hibiscus!  On the other side of my pond garden I have my Tiger Eyes Sumac to give a bit more of a tropical feel as well, surrounded by my Black Knight Butterfly Bush, more Monarda (gotta keep those hummingbirds coming!), Spiderwort, Coreopsis and more.

My front bed was much fuller this summer as well, but I will need to make some adjustments on the placement of some items.  I loved the combination of my Phlox, Black-eyed Susans and Shasta Daises.  Now I have continuous gladiolus flowers blooming each week for great cutting displays in my kitchen!  Priscilla Gladiolus and Fidelio Glads fill this vase for a punch of color.  And my pink Turtlehead (a bit more aggressive then I’d like) is blooming now.

All throughout my beds I had surprises come up about 2 weeks ago… Lycoris Squamigera (Pink Magic Lily). I definitely want to add en mass in my front bed!

Pink Magic Lily/ Lycoris Squamigera

Oh yes – and those long awaited, slow-growing Begonias… those are great in my pots on thefront stoop with very little sun!  I LOVE my Apricot/Scarlet Picotee Begonia the most.  I mixed them with purple Wave Pentunias and Red Hanging basket Begonias.

Ludwig Helfert Dahlia

Now, as I am putting all of this together, I see how many photos I failed to take.  Time seems to go so fast for me in the summertime…just as my kids are growing too fast.  I wish I had taken more pictures of them this summer, as well.  🙁   It seems as though I used to take more photos in the past…going to have to make a conscious effort to do so more in the future!

 

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Muscari a.k.a. Grape Hyacinth

A great flower bulb addition to any garden – a must have!

Muscari is a short flower that is very easy to grow which typically blooms in the early to late spring depending on the species. Their lovely blooms range in color from blue, purple, to white.

First cultivated in England in 1576, Muscari is a plant that has stood the test of time! There are over forty species of this plant in the genus Muscari which all produce spikes of round, closed  flowers which resemble bunches of grapes.  They top out at about 4-8 inches tall.  The two most common species in cultivation are the Muscari armeniacum (blue in color) and Muscari botryoides ‘Alba’ (white in color). Muscari are generally hardy in zones 3-8.

These little beauties grow well in rock gardens, borders, and as under-plantings for other taller spring blooming bulb plants, such as tulips and daffodils. Rodents and deer tend to shun this plant which makes them great for naturalizing along the edges of wooded areas!


Thriving in full sun to half shade, grape hyacinth require little to no work once planted!  They are long-lived and the bulbs can be split every few years in fall and replanted to continue for generations!  They naturalize and spread easily on their own which makes them a perfect choice in large areas.  Muscari, crocus, and scilla all naturalize well in lawns (just be sure to allow foliage to wither before cutting the surrounding grass).  Plant them just 2-3″ deep and at least 2″ apart, as they will fill in well each year.

Muscari bulbs are great for indoor forcing, grow wonderfully in containers, and their blooms last just as long as cut flower as in the garden (approx 4 weeks)!  The bulbs typically send up fresh foliage in fall as well, giving them a longer season of interest.  I particularly love them as a border plant in beds and along drive- and walkways!

I can’t get enough of the little bursts of purple and blue throughout my garden!  Latifolium Muscari happens to be my favorite – obviously because of the deep purple with the blue, a two-tone flower!!  Two other interesting types that I would like to soon add to my gardens include: Plumosum Muscari (has wiry sprigs of greenish flowers that turn purple when in full bloom giving it a truly unique look) and Fantasy Creation Muscari (has bushier/fluffier blue-purple blooms). Which ones will you try this fall?


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Foxtail Lily – Not your Ordinary Lily

Thereby Hangs a Tail!

Foxtail Lilies are from the Liliaceae family and the Eremurus genus.  They are also known as the Desert Candle and are perennial plants that grow from tuberous roots.  An excellent choice for structural height in a flower bed, Foxtail lilies also look great in front of a wall, as part of a striking border or in a cut-flower bed.

One of the things I love best about Foxtail Lilies is that they are not as common as the Oriental Lily, Asiatic Lily, or Daylilies.  They have not been in my garden before, but I intend to be adding 3 this fall.  I look forward to cutting them for my vase in early summer, before my Lilies and Gladiolus bloom!  I am going to plant them near my Globemaster Allium which also blooms in the late spring and early summer.

The leaves of the Foxtail Lily are like clusters of swords that come up from the base of the plant and then produce flower stalks that average from 3-8 feet in height.  They usually do not need staking, but should still be somewhat protected from strong winds.  Individual flowers are bell-shaped, approx. 1 inch wide, and crowded into tall spire-like spikes, with hundreds of flowers per stalk.

Eremoro (Candela del deserto) - Foxtail Lilies

The flowers bloom in shades of pink, orange, red, yellow and white. Blossoms begin appearing during the late spring to the middle of summer and last for two to three weeks.  They make excellent cut flowers (be sure to cut when only half the florets have opened on the stalk).  They are definitely hardy in zones 5-8, but if well mulched and protected can grow well into zones 4 and 9 as well.

Eremurus

When planting the Foxtail lily bulb, choose a sunny location in well-draining soil.  These bulbs should be planted in fall before the ground is frozen.  It is best if to add compost or other organic matter as  adequate drainage is important. Like most bulbs, they are somewhat susceptible to rotting or fungus issues if they are kept too wet.  Dig the hole approximately 5-6″ deep and 8-10″ apart.  When covering roots, be sure to have the crown or bud facing up with a couple of inches of soil over the top.  Handle roots with care since they tend to be on the brittle side.

I believe I will plant three of the Pinnokio Foxtail which grow up to 5 feet tall, as I’m needing something with height in that area of my garden.  It’s bright orangery-yellow color will go well with all of my purple Allium!   At this point, the Bungei Foxtail which tops out at about 6 feet tall or the  Romance Foxtail, which is very appropriately named with its pale pink color, are also unique and tall, but I’m just not finding the right space for them in my garden yet.

Perhaps you can find a spot for one (or two or three 🙂 of these amazing plants in your garden this year, too!

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Daffodils – THE Spring-Blooming Flower

Daffodils are a welcome sight in spring!  All of them are deer and pest resistant, extremely cold hardy, and naturalize well. Some are even slightly frangrant.  And you are not limited to just the basic yellow daffodils – there are many varieties to choose from!

Daffodils are sometimes referred to as Narcissus, that being their botanical name. Some also refer to them as Jonquils (which is just a select division).  Daffodils are marked by a central bell, bowl, or disc-shaped corona surrounded by a ring of six floral leaves called the perianth.  The different daffodil divisions are categorized by the size or type of cup and its perianth.

The different main divisions of daffodils are as follows:

  • Trumpet – the cup is as long or longer than the petals and has one bloom per stem. 
  • Large Cup – the cup length measures more than 1/3 of, but less than equal to, the length of the petals and has one bloom per stem.
  • Small Cup – the cup length measures not more than 1/3 of the length of the petal, and has one bloom per stem. 
  • Double Daffodils – these have a clustered cup and petals, and sometimes have multiple flowers per stem. 
  • Triandrus – these have blooms that hang like bells, and often have two or more blooms per stem.
  • Cyclamineus – these have a wind-swept apperance, and features one bloom per stem. 
  • Jonquilla – these have small flowers with flat petals and one to three blooms on each stem. Plus, these are very fragrant and feature narrow foliage.
  • Tazetta – these feature clusters of florets, usually more than three on a stem, broad foliage and are pleasantly fragrant.
  • Poeticus  – these are known for their extremely white petals. The cup is small with usually a green center, surrounded by yellow with a red rim, featuring a crinkled disc. This daffodil usually produces one fragrant bloom per stem. 
  • Split Cup – these have cups which are split at more than half its length.

Daffodils like the sun and will continue to multiply and return year after year in zones 3-8.  The bulbs should be planted during the fall season approximately 6-8″ deep and at least 4-5″ apart.  Plant them in grass, plant them in clumps, plant them in borders. They will always be a welcome sight at the end of winter anywhere you put them.

Looking for gift ideas for a friend?  Any daffodil is a great choice for a beginner gardener because they are so easy to grow.  All one needs to do is plant them and let them grow.  No special care is needed.  They can also be a great choice for the advanced gardener, by choosing a daffodil that is less common (but just as easy to grow) to add something new and unique to the landscape.  Daffodils can handle a wide range of zones, weather, and soil…coming back year after year!

Here are some more interesting differences to help you see and choose between the different types (click on the underlined word to see examples):  Trumpet Daffodils contain some of the true classic daffodils found in the spring landscape. Trumpet daffodils flower early in the season Large Cupped Daffodils are mid season flowering. They feature colors from white, to yellow, and even yellow with an orange cup. They do a marvelous job of adding spalshes of bright and bold colors to your landscape.   Pink/Salmon color Daffodils will add a softness to your spring color pallette. They look great when planted with other daffodils, as well as pastel colored Tulips and Hyacinths. Double Daffodils come in such an array of color choices, heights and bloom shapes, there is most definitely a double daffodil that will appeal to any garden or landscape. Miniature Daffodils are excellent for rock gardens, as well as small space gardens. These cute Daffodils are compiled from several divisions, such as Triandrus Cultivars, Jonquilla Cultivars, and the Tazetta Cultivars. Try some of these adorable and cheery daffodils in your garden this year! Last but not least are some more varieties that you may never have seen before.  These SpecialtyDaffodils would make a great choice to add a bit more interest to your gardens.  These are the ones that really stand out from the rest of your garden.

I have quite a few different types in my yard.  I always look to add more of what I do not see everywhere else – like the double daffodils and specialty daffodils.  I particularly enjoy ones which are fragrant and offer a variety of color.  Maybe you will find some new unique daffodils to add to your garden too!

 

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Rodent and Deer Resistant Bulbs

deer

I have 3 acres of land (1.5 acres of wetland), many flower beds, a large fruit and vegetable garden, but only have to deal with insect and water problems.  When we first moved to this property 10 years ago (from a more populated area), I was so excited to see the bunnies running around and we even spotted a few deer visitors.  I love to see wildlife!  I still ( after my over 30 years in Wisconsin) get excited every time I see a deer in a field near the road while driving.   I even find myself slowing down to say “hello” and tell them to run away from the fast moving cars 🙂  I simply love animals.

I hear many sad stories of what the deer, rabbits, chipmunks and turkeys do to my readers’ flowers, and every time I’m so glad it rarely happens to me.  I consider myself fortunate that I do not have to deal with problems related to deer, chipmunks, squirrels or rabbits!  I happen to own 2 outdoor rescue cats as well as a Labrador.  This is probably where my good fortune comes from.   BUT that doesn’t mean I don’t miss seeing them.

However, I know that many of you do have to deal with animals ruining the enjoyment of your beautiful flowers. Therefore, I have put together a list of flower bulbs that will help you enjoy a wide variety of plants and blooms that rodents, rabbits and deer tend to ignore!  Sometimes even just planting these around other plants will help keep the munchers at bay.

Deer and Rodent Resistant Bulbs for Fall planting:

 

Deer and Rodent Resistant Bulbs for Spring planting:

 

A squirrel in the garden

One thing to keep in mind: There really aren’t any animal proof plants.  If a deer or other animal isn’t finding something to eat, they may still find a meal in one of the above plants.  In extreme circumstances, such as if you experience deer traveling through your yard on a regular basis, you may also want to use a repellent spray on your flowers in addition to planting resistant varieties or lay a deer netting over the top of the blooms.  (Big box stores and garden centers carry both of these.)  If you see a large number of squirrels and chipmunks in your yard, you may also want to purchase chicken wire to place over plantings and bury it in the dirt or mulch to prevent them from digging.

Posted in Deer resistant, Fall, Flower Bulbs, Flowers, Gardening 101, Rodent resistant, Spring, summer | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments