Fall has really just arrived. It is my second favorite season, which comes just before the worst – Winter. I do not really want to think about winter quite yet, but it will arrive soon for those in Northern areas. I did speak with a gardener in Colorado today who just received a forecast of snow within the week! So, it seems I am not too early to talk about this for some.
So when do you prepare for winter’s return? I always recommend waiting for the first light frost that makes your tender flowers wilt or flop before beginning cleaning up your beds and store any tender bulbs (bulbs which are not hardy in your zone). If it will better fit in to your schedule, feel free to perform these tasks earlier. I personally just prefer to enjoy my plants as long as possible before I make my beds look bare.
When light frost begins appearing, it is time to pull up your annuals, cut back all perennials to 3-4″ above the ground, and lift your tender bulbs for storing. This is especially important for those in US Hardiness Zones 2-7. If you are in one of these colder zones, you may also want to cover perennials with some mulch. Snow works as an insulator, but with freezing and thawing and little or no snow cover, your perennial roots can be destroyed. Bulbs that are hardy in your zone are deeper in the ground and do not need mulching.
Caladium Bulb
For your quick reference, the most common tender rhizomes, tubers, corms and bulbs are: Dahlias, Cannas, Calla Lilies, Elephant ears, Begonias, Gladiolus, and Caladiums. These bulbs are only hardy in zones 8-10 or 9-10.
You could simply purchase new bulbs next year and allow the tender ones to die, but I like to be as frugal as possible. Storing tender bulbs is very simple and takes just a little effort.
- Start by trimming foliage to ground level
- Carefully dig around bulb and lift
- Shake and gently wipe off as much dirt as possible (do not rinse)
- Let dry for 1-2 weeks in a cool, dry area that will not freeze
- If storing more than one type of bulb, don’t forget to sort and label
- Once dried, shake off and remove remaining dirt
- Find a container to store them in such as a cardboard box, paper bag, basket, etc
- Use peat moss, wood shavings or vermiculite to keep bulbs separated and well hydrated
- Keep your stored bulbs in a dry, cool (45° to 55°), dark and ventilated area until spring
Now that you have taken care of your garden – go relax. Maybe you can enjoy an autumn bonfire like me!
My son gave me a vase of the tulips that bloom by keeping the roots under water
(no dirt used)
They were BEAUTIFUL and lasted over a week.
Now I have dead flowers and want to save the blubs to hopefully rebloom next year.
Can you tell me how to protect the bulbs now and how to get them rooting and ready to go next year ?
Im glad you enjoyed them! BUT when you force bulbs, you generally will have no luck at keeping them. The leaves need to soak up sun to rejuvenate the bulb and then “hibernate” and then begin the growing process all over when the cold months begin. The rejuvenate process does not usually happen when you force the bulbs. It really is like having fresh cut flowers.
Sorry!
My daughter gave me a tulip plant that had been potted. The flowers are gone and the foliage is starting to fade. Can I repot the bulbs or should I dry them and save to plant later. I live in FLorida in zone9-10.
Stop watering. Once foliage is completely dried out store bulbs in a dark cool (below 60°) area. Then after 4-5 months you can bring out to water and light again. Tulips need ‘down time’ and approx 15 weeks of COLD to grow and bloom properly. see blog post: Forcing Flower bulbs
I live in the Central Florida area. I was repotting flowers and came across the tulip plant given to me a month ago. The foliage is gone, but digging in the plant, we found the bulbs – many of them. It never gets really cold here, so how should I care for the bulbs that we got from the plant?
Can I put them in the refrig or freezer and then bring them out when it gets cool – probably not until late October?
Tulips are only hardy into USDA zone 7. So, if you are warmer than that, keep in soil but do not water. I would wait at least until June before putting them in cool area like a refrigerator. They are not like seeds and they can dry out. You would need to force them to get them to grow again. For directions see my post: Forcing Flower Bulbs
When do I take up tulip bulbs so that I can seperate the bulbs and then when do I replant them.
After foliage has completely yellowed and died back, you may dig up for replanting. Bulbs are now rejuvenated and need to ‘rest’ a while until temps cool down again. PS:Do not water when replanting.
Hi — A New York City gardener has just given me tulip bulbs taken from the soil May 3rd so annuals can now be planted in the tree wells. I would like to care for the bulbs, let the leaves dry, and then let the bulbs “hibernate” so they can be replanted in terrace and/or house pots for next Spring’s blooming. They are beautiful blooms and well worth nurturing. What are the steps you suggest I follow? I have no outdoor space of my own. Thank you!
Nora,
If the tulips were done blooming and foliage had completely yellowed- then you would now store them in a cool dark place, until its time to really chill them for forcing. See: Forcing Flower Bulbs.
But it sounds like they were still green and removed from ground- which means the bulb roots are damaged and the leaves will not be able to rejuvenate the bulb. Which means- throw them away- they will produce nothing next year except maybe a leaf or two. Sorry
Hi Gabrielle — Thanks so much for answering. The bulbs were taken out with a lot of soil around the roots, and I hoped that by re potting them for a while till the leaves do die back I could save them to replant. I wondered since I do not have an outdoor space, if I did dry the bulbs after the leaves have dried, yellowed and then been removed, when I should re pot them in order to hopefully have them bloom in their normal time next spring. Or, do you think there just too much wishful thinking here? I’m happy to try if there’s a chance of some blossoms, I don’t expect a guarantee. Thanks again!